Overview 
kLite offers 2 distinct lighting systems, the kLite Ultra RACE System and the kLite Ultra ADVENTURE System. These differ in a number of ways with the primary difference being the beam patterns they provide. 
With the RACE system the beam pattern is designed to provide a powerful concentrated long throw beam that's suited for moving at speed, illuminating the road ahead.
The ADVENTURE system offers a wider beam that allows for greater peripheral vision - perfect for rougher trails and off piste exploring. 
kLite
Ultra RACE System
Beam Pattern
This is the best light in the kLite range for flying down rough roads at speed. With its specifically selected optical elements it provides great versatility, allowing you to move quickly, throwing tons of light down the road. When navigating tricky sections of track at slower speeds its single flood lens element helps you by providing a wider field of view. 



RACE OPTICS WEIGHTED TOWARDS PROVIDING MORE THROW. PERFECT FOR MOVING AT SPEED. 
Riding Style

The Ultra RACE beam pattern is perfect for all types of race scenarios. Because it has the best throw it brightly illuminates the path ahead allowing you to ride faster on flat ground and descents.

For true off road races such as the Silk Road Mountain Race or the Tour Divide most riders would also run a rechargeable helmet light to help navigate really windy sections of trail. The kLite ULTRA Race combined with a helmet light is recommended for travelling fast on challenging terrain.


BEAM PATTERN WEIGHTED TOWARDS PROVIDING MORE THROW. PERFECT FOR MOVING AT SPEED. 
Always On Charging

The Ultra RACE features 'Always On' USB charging. That means that you easily have the ability to top up key electronics in the middle of the night while riding. As a result you'll always be able to find your way or keep your tracker up and running.

It's worth noting that charging electronics at the same time as running lights could have an effect on the brightness of your light as the power coming from your dynamo hub will be being split between these competing demands. Best practice for most racers is to charge their cache batteries during the day with their lights off and use their power exclusively for lighting at night.


Key Benefits

• 1300 lumen Ultra Bright Beam
• Beam pattern optimised for riding at speed 
• Always on USB charging 
  
  

kLite
Ultra ADVENTURE System
Beam Pattern

Throwing a bright ultra wide beam the kLite Ultra ADVENTURE Light is perfect for sketchy descents and tight cornering, illuminating brightly even at low speeds. 
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This design works well without a dedicated helmet light, lighting up the trail and obstacles around you.
AVENTURE OPTICS WEIGHTED TOWARDS PROVIDING MORE PERIPHERAL VISION. PERFECT FOR TOUGH TRACKS. Riding Style

The Ultra ADVENTURE beam pattern covers all the bases nicely providing a single solution for riding both rough roads and sketchy trails. 
​
The beam pattern is weighted towards a wide field of view meaning you'll always be able to see what's ahead. This focus on peripheral vision comes at a cost of overall throw, making it the best choice for people adventuring rather than racing.

TRS Plus 12 Speed Cassettes have class-leading range, and plug directly
into SRAM Eagle Mechanical* and Shimano XTR, XT, and SLX 12 speed
drivetrains.
The exclusive-to-e*thirteen 9t sprocket allows you to
run a smaller chainring for better ground clearance and additional
weight savings.
If you're planning on building up your new bike with
a 12 speed drivetrain or your existing setup is running rough, consider
saving some money and weight with e*thirteen's TRS Plus 12 Speed
Cassettes.

• Color: Black
• Compatibility: SRAM Eagle and Shimano XTR, XT, SLX 12 Speed Drivetrains
• Features: Our 9T cog allows for greater range in a more compact, lightweight drivetrain. Smaller cogs allow for a smaller chainring, improve ground clearance, and reduce the amount of chain needed.
• Mounts to an XD Driver with a 3mm pinch bolt, and standard cassette spline tool. Removes simply with a chainwhip and cassette tool.
• Freehub Mount
• XD and XDR Drivers Only
• Material: 2 aluminum cogs, 10 steel cogs
• Range: 9-50T: 556%
• Size: 9-46T: 9,10,12,14,16,18,21,24,28,33,39,46, 9-50T: 9,11,13,15,17,20,23,27,31,36,42,50
• Speeds: 12 Speed
• Weight: 9-46T: 336g, 9-50T: 393g
  

I though I knew how to lube a chain but I didnt really understand the obvious mechanics of what I was trying to achieved when I was lubing it. What I mean by that is I thought I was lubing the chain to reduce the friction between the chain and the chain rings and cassette, seems about right but no! I got that wrong. What you are actually trying to do is lube the internal surfaces of the chain that articulate (bend) when passing over/around the chainring, cassette and to a more extreme degree the jockey wheels and reduce the contamination from road/trail grit from sitting on and entering the chain.

So the friction from the drivetrain you experience when you pedalling comes mainly from the chain articulating back and forth as it makes its way around the chainring(s) weaving through the jockey wheels and back around the cassette. The molten wax flows into the gaps in your chain then once remove cools to produce a hard smooth (polished once ridden) surface making it extremly hard for grit and dirt to enter.

The chain above has been wet lubed, you can see the build up and retention of dirt and grime.

Freshly waxed chain read to hit the road/trails, clean dry plates with no way for the dirt to penetrate inside.

The chain needs to be spotless, remove all factory grease (if new) or lube/dirt and grime on a used chain with  white spirt (also called mineral spirt), this will need at least 3 fresh applications, the white spirit then need to be removed (again this will need at least 2 fresh application). This is to leave a perfectly clean metal surface with no residue. The chain once dry is submerged in molten hot wax and then removed and hung over the wax container to drip and cool down. There will be a small amount of dried wax on the outside and between the chain plates and the chain will have dried stiff, you can run the chain over round plastic surface surface, some people use the edge of a work stand or put a nail through a jockey wheel on the wall and run the chain over that to break off any lose wax. You can now put the chain back on your bike, the ideal run in period is around 20 minuites for most waxes before the wax has reached its optimum polished finish.

Exactly what I thought....how much different can one chain lube be from another, can waxing a chain really make a difference.
Like many things in life it depends, the Watt savings for chain waxing gets all the headlines but in reality the vast majourity of riders (even those who race) it probably is one of the last upgrades you think of making but the reality is the Watt saving (typically between 3-5 watts bepending onthe chain and power you output) could be greatly beneficial to the casual cyclist or racers due to the time spent on track or doing the activity. Although you are producing less power per hour (and thus saving less Watts) you will probably spend more time out on the course meaning these savings will compound over time, leading to either a faster or easier ride for the same effort.

As you can see from the image above this chain an cassette have been ridden for just over 200km (125 miles) off-road and there is minimal dust or dirt attracted to either and the chain rollers are polished clean and dry.

The real benefit of waxing your chain to the average cyclist (racing or casual) is how clean it remains. This took me a while to get my head around why thats important and how it saves you time and effort, money and wear and tear on the cassette and chainring(s).
The part of the chain you see (the outside) isnt the part that needs lubricating, the energy lost (in Watts) and the wear and tear on the chain comes from the friction caused by the inside of the roller part of your chain and the bush/pin on each link. The lubricant needs to reach inside the chain to coat these surfaces.
Long story short (I will write another blog to explain it better) wet lubricant via capillary action is drawn into the chain and will sit between the roller and pin to allow these two surfaces to rub over each other with less friction (than just metal on metal). The issue is the same capiliary action that draws lube in also carries dirt particles in and increases wear.

When you wax a chain you immerse it into hot wax allowing the wax to coat and fill the voids around the internal roller/bush surface before cooling and setting hard. Then when you ride the bike with the waxed chain this surface becomes polished and because it solid there is no room for dirt and grime to get in.

Yea but nothing. I will outline and expand on many of the points above in future blogs.
The main benefits of waxing your chain:

• Saving you Watts.
  
• Clean Drive train.
  
• Saves you money via wear and tear on components (chain, cassette and chain rings).
  
• Save you time on cleaning your bike and maintenance.
  

If this short explananation on why waxing your chain is better for you isnt for you then great, carry on with your lube of choice.

Silca chain waxes and lube have been added to the Travers Bikes website.
Very soon we will be offering new services around the Silca chain wax system.